TIPS & TRICKS - WindowOnItaly

Pam's Civitavecchia Tips & Tricks

The name of my hometown is meaningful as it may be devided into 2 parts: “Civita” that is an old italian noun which stands for “city” and “vecchia” which means “old”! Infact Civitavecchia is truly an old city which was founded when the ancient Rome needed a new port for its Empire; it was the Emperor Trajan who had it built at the very beginning of the second century after Christ.
For this reason this modern city port boasts amazing roman remains especially in the historical area of the Port which, despite it is the second cruise port of the Mediterrenean and it is costantly growing and achieving new goals (3 million passengers in 2023) can boast roman walls and mosaics plus statues most of which are collected in the nearby tiny local Archaeological Museum, but also in the Vatican Museums in Rome!
Civitavecchia was also the Port of the Popes and that of the State of the Church so that it is still possibile to admire the architectural highlights which the Popes commissioned to the geniuses of the Italian Renaissance to make this port safer and more powerful: the Fortress by Bramante (the architect of Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome), the Defensive Walls by Pope Urban VIII, the Fountain by Vanvitelli are the main highlights of the historical area of the Port together with the remains of the roman warehouses of the second century which would store the goods coming from the sea going traffic before they were carried to the Capital of the Roman Empire. The modern day city is welcoming and quiet Its city center, sea front promenade, tiny medieval district are all by the sea and within walking distance so that you can walk everywhere and enjoy its shops, bars, pizzerias, restaurants and gelato places without getting tired: that’s the ideal town where you can recover from your jetlag after the flight and before the cruise or where you can relax a little while before taking your flight back home.

Civitavecchia is also a strategic starting point for amazing tours to off the beaten path gems in the surroundings, up to southern Tuscany

The last but not the least: WE ARE FOOD LOVERS!! Don’t forget to taste our cuisine!

Enjoy my "Window on Civitavecchia"😃 and download the Civitavecchia City Map. That's my special treat for you all!

Download Map

WHERE TO EAT

What if you’re foodies?😋😋 Don’t worry and be ready to enjoy and make your palate happy!

Here the best places for Food Lovers are:

– Piazza Saffi (Medieval district – Meat based Menu)

– Via Pietro Manzi (Medieval District – Meat based Menu)

– Ghetto area (Via Luigi Cadorna – Meat based Menu and Pizza)

– Lungoporto Gramsci (with a beautiful port and sea view – Fish based Menu and Pizza)

– the Pirgo Promenade (mainly Fish based Menu)

– Calamatta Square

WHERE TO EAT

CABS

Civitavecchia has got just few cabs whose station is the Square facing the main entrance/exit of the Railway City Station.

The Taxi Station phone number is: +39 0766 26121.

If you’re going to take a cab in Civitavecchia, please keep in mind two things:

• During the peak tourist season, you may not find any cab in the square in the morning as many of them usually move to the cruise piers and wait for clients who want to go to Rome.

• Before taking any cab (and that’s valid all over Italy) even if the drive is short (e.g. from the train station to the cruise pier) it is always advisable to ask the cab driver to turn the taximetre on. Cab drivers are honest people but a few of them might try to bargain the fare: if the taximetre is on, there’s no need for that!

CABS

OPENING HOURS

Shops usually open at 9.00 in the morning and close at 1.00. The “siesta time” lasts three hours so that shops open again at 4.00 in the afternoon till 7.00/8.00 (depending on the season) in the evening.

Being Civitavecchia located in central Italy, locals enjoy their meals quite late (the more you go to the south, the later people eat!). Restaurants are opened for dinner no earlier than 7.00 pm while they open at about 12.00 so that you may enjoy your lunch even at 12.30 😃😅

Most restaurants and pizzerias are closed on Mondays or Tuesdays.

OPENING HOURS

BEACH

Being the first Italian Cruise Port and the second European one (after Barcellona), it is not allowed to bathe in most beaches in the city centre next to the Port

If you feel like relaxing on a beach, you have three options:

1 • you may walk to the Pirgo area (the narrower part of the Marina sea front promenade) where you will find a tiny and intimate pebble beach

2 • you may take the train and go to Santa Marinella, a seaside resort to the south of Civitavecchia and just 6 minutes ride far.

The ticket costs 1.10 € and the train station in Santa Marinella is so close to the beach! You just have to cross the street and the seaside will be in front of you.

3 •.To the north of Civitavecchia there is another beach: it is quite long and sandy and it is located in the Municipality of Tarquinia, 10 kilometres far from Civitavecchia. Its name is: Sant’ Agostino Beach.

It is possible to take the urban green bus E line which leaves from the little square facing the Railway station at 11.00 am and 3.00 pm (the bus’ schedule may vary).

The drop off point (the same as the pick up point for the ride on the way back) is 10 minutes walking along an unpaved narrow street far from the first beach resort.

BEACH

WHAT TO DO

If you’re wondering what you can do in my hometown, here some tips are!

No doubt, you may spend a couple of relaxing and nice days in Civitavecchia!

The Market

The City Market is in Piazza Regina Margherita and consists of a Food Market (Fish, Meat, Vegetables, Fruit and Charcuterie) and a Dress Market.

The City Market is opened every morning, except for Sunday.

Shops

In the city centre, shops are within walking distance

. These are the names of the streets where you’ll find most shops: Corso Marconi, Corso Centocelle, Via Traiana, Viale Garibaldi, Via XVI Settembre.

Bars, Restaurants and Pizzerias

Civitavecchia boasts lots of places to eat and taste local food while you relax, enjoy the atmosphere and watch people go by

Here the best places for Food Lovers are:

– Piazza Saffi (Medieval district – mainly Meat based Menu)

– Via Pietro Manzi (Medieval District – mainly Meat based Menu)

– Ghetto area (Via Luigi Cadorna – Meat based Menu and Pizza)

– Lungoporto Gramsci (with a beautiful port and sea view – Fish based Menu and Pizza)

– the Pirgo Promenade (mainly Fish based Menu)

– Calamatta Square

The Pirgo Promenade and the Ghetto area get full of lively and noicy teenagers

on Saturday Evening after 9.00/10.00 pm.

City Sightseeing Stroll

It is a pleasure to me to give you guidance

I give you a tip

You may either have a look at the “WHAT TO SEE” section as I’ve listed my city’s highlights there in an alphabetical order (from A to N, from north to south) or download my City Map

WHAT TO DO

WHAT TO SEE

A • The ancient part of the Port (the Darsena)

The Darsena, the smaller basin of the port that is to say the wet dock with the local fishing boats, was the place where the roman emperial fleet was docked in the second century after Christ and the very heart of the city. Remains of roman walls are scattered around the area.

B • The Fountain of Vanvitelli and the Papal Crenellated Walls.

Brick faced crenellated walls face the main historical basin of the port! They were built in the 18 hundreds by order of Pope Urban VIII (Barberini Family). At half lenght of the walls, a beautiful white travertine Fountain embellished by the sculpted head of an old faun, would provide running water to the port: it is the work by Luigi Vanvitelli (1743).

C • Livorno Gate

This white, partially travertine, arched 18th century gate divides the Old Port from the city centre. If you walk through it and cross the street, you’ll find yourself in Calamatta Square and very close to the tiny and intimate Medieval district.

D • The Medieval area, with the nice remains of the medieval walls, is a little bit hidden and can’t be easily seen if you walk along the ordinary walking route by the coast so that it’s important to have a reference point: PIAZZA CALAMATTA!

In this little Square you’ll find a narrow cobbled uphill street (Via Colle dell’Ulivo) going to the Medieval area with its two little intimate squares (Piazza Saffi and Piazza Leandra)

At the very end of Via Colle dell’Ulivo there is a Baroque little gem: the Church of Saint Mary of the Prayer and Death.

E • Church of Saint Mary of the Prayer and Death, can boast a unique atmosphere!

Its lovely painted oval dome and the wooden choir and organ’s balustrade taken from a Papal battleship which fought against the Turks in the 15 hundreds, are outstanding!

It is opened every morning.

F • The Church of the Star (in Leandra Square) is for sure one of the oldest churches in Civitavecchia. It houses: the amazing wooden statue of the Vergin Mary dating back to the 16th century; the statues carried during the Procession of the Good Friday; beautiful golden decorations and the amazing paintings by the local artist Ennio Galice. In this Church it is possible to admire some ancient roman and Renaissance city walls underneath thanks to its transparent floor. Unfortunately, being run by the local representatives of the Brotherhood of the Gonfalone, it is very often closed so that you need good luck to visit this lovely Church.

G • The Cathedral dedicated to Saint Francesco from Assisi is located in PIAZZA VITTORIO EMANUELE. It was built on the remains of a small Franciscan Church of the early 16 hundreds and completed at the end of the 17 hundreds. The Cathedral houses the statue of the Patron Saint of Civitavecchia, Santa Fermina, a young roman girl who was martyred for her Christian Faith under the roman Emperor Diocletian in the 3rd century.

H • The Michelangelo Fortress (despite it has nothing to do with the worldwide famous genius) is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture by Donato Bramante (one of the main architects of Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome) and was built in the early 15 hundreds.

I • The National Archaeological Museum (in Largo Cavour) is housed in the 18th century Custom Office Building of the Popes. This tiny Museum displays very interesting Archaeological findings and artecrafts, both Etruscan and Roman, from Civitavecchia and the surrounding territory. (The Museum is closed on Mondays)

L • La Marina is a large and relaxing sea front promenade which gets narrower and narrower southwards: this narrow part of the promenade is named The Pirgo. The Pirgo is characterized by an artificial island surrounded by the sea and connected to the seashore by means of a pedestrian arched bridge. The Pirgo is also endowed with a nice beach with sunbeds and umbrellas and with many restaurants and bars which border the seashore… a very cool and relaxing part of the city definitely!

M • The Church of the Immacolate Conception (in Piazzale degli Eroi) preserves a beautiful, sweet, precious painting of the face of the Vergin Mary which, according to the Christian tradition and chronicles, smiled fondly at the local children who were praying and going to receive the Holy Communion for the first time, in 1854.

N • The Church of the Holy Japanese Martyrs

is located in Largo San Francesco d’Assisi, 15 minutes walking far from the Marina, passing through the Pirgo promenade.

This Church provides a beautiful artistic testimony of the tragedy of the 26 Japanese martyrs killed in 1597: here it is possible to admire the splendid frescoes by the Japanese painter Luca Hasegawa.

O • The Ancient Roman Thermal Baths by Trajan (not within walking distance)

This amazing archaeological site boasts the remains of the pools, rooms, sauna, library and mosaics of the roman Thermal Baths built in Civitavecchia in the late Republican and early Imperial Era. They rise on top of a hill, only 5 kilometres far from the port, so that visitors can enjoy a wonderful view and a nice breeze under the shade of the pine trees. They can be reached by cab or by the hop on – hop off buses, when this service is provided (please ask for detailed information on the spot before taking the bus). The Roman Baths are opened from 9.30 am till 1.00 pm and the ticket costs 5€ p/p

The Ancient Roman Baths are in Via Terme di Traiano.

P • The Ficoncella Hot Water Thermal Baths (not within walking distance)

The Terme della Ficoncella are a small and simple complex, located about 4 km far from Civitavecchia.

The Ficoncella springs were used both by the Etruscans and the ancient Romans.

Due to their innumerable therapeutic properties , the waters of the Ficoncella are recommended for the treatment of various diseases: dermatitis, arthritis and problems of gastric origin, diseases of the respiratory and urinary system. Besides they are very effective for healing wounds, for toothache and also used for inhalations and mud therapy.

The spa consists of 5 pools dug in the rock and characterized by a different temperature which varies from 50 to 60 Celsius degrees but the temperature lowers in the pools. It is a sulphurous kind of water, characterized by the absence of strong sulfuric odors.

The complex is equipped with a bar, changing rooms, bathrooms, chairs and sun loungers .
It is managed at low cost by a company that takes care of the maintenance of the spa. The comforts are not many but, on the other hand, a good hygiene and safety service is ensured. The structure is monitored and fenced, while the tanks are emptied and cleaned every day.
The half day ticket costs only 3€ (it is valid for up to 6 hours, from 8.00 am to 2.00 pm) while the full day ticket’s price is 5€ and it is valid up to 8.00 pm. The night entrance starts at 8.00 and costs 5€ per person.
During the summer season the Ficoncella Baths are opend till 2 am and so you can have a relaxing bath looking at the starry sky and enjoying the sea breeze
If it’s your first time diving in these waters, don’t overdo it! The strong heat could cause you to suddenly drop in pressure … so be careful not to immerse yourself too quickly! It is recommended to stay a few minutes and then re-emerge.

The Ficoncella Spa is in Via Terme di Traiano.

Q • The Madonna in Pantano (for Believers, not within walking distance)

In a little Church, seven kilometres north of Civitavecchia, there’s the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Pantano, where a shrine contains the small plaster statuette of the Virgin of Medjugorie, who is said weeped blood in February 2nd, 1995.

The Statuette was previously placed in a niche of the garden of a local family house in the Pantano district. In the morning on Feb 2nd, 1995 the five years old Gessica noticed red tears pouring out from the eyes of the statuette and she immediately called her parents. The Parish priest informed the Bishop (Monsignor Girolamo Grillo) who was very skeptical at the beginning. The white statue of the Vergin Mary cried 14 times, in front of hundreds of witnesses while the last inexplicable event happened on March 15th in the hands of the Bishop, who ceased to be skeptical and started to believe in the supernatural nature of that event.

X rays were made and nothing weird was found in the statuette: just plaster.

In the important roman hospital “Gemelli” the blood was examined and it was proved that it was male human blood (no specific blood group was found out owing to the small blood quantity survived)

R • AQUAFELIX WATER THEME PARK

(not within walking distance)

If you are going to spend at least a couple of days in Civitavecchia and you are travelling with young kids, a Water Theme Park could be a nice and convenient option!

Dream pools, water slides for all ages, navigable water streams, hydromassages, games, attractions, shows and lots of music!

The ticket’s cost varies from 10 up to 22€ p/p depending on the month.

Aquafelix is opened from June to the end of August. A public bus line connects the Train Station with the Park (The bus leaves at 10.15 and 11.15 but the bus’ schedule may vary).

In order to find the local highlights, you don’t just have to use Internet! You can also download and use my City Map: I had it made to help you all!

WHAT TO SEE

FIUMICINO AIRPORT BY TRAIN

If you want to take the train from Fiumicino Airport of Rome to Civitavecchia (and viceversa), you’ll have to take 2 trains: the first one from Fiumicino to Ostiense Rome Train Station (8€, it leaves every 15 minutes and takes 30 minutes) while the second train leaves from Roma Ostiense Station and gets to Civitavecchia. The latter mostly leaves every hour (sometimes there are two rides in one hour timeframe), it takes one hour and the ticket costs 4.60 € (SAME INFO FOR THE OPPOSITE ROUTE) There is no baggage car but you can put your hand luggage on the shelves which are above the seats and one big piece of luggage in between 2 opposite empty seats

FIUMICINO AIRPORT BY TRAIN

ROME BY TRAIN

There are shuttle buses leaving every 15/20 minutes from each cruise ship and going to the city train station.

The ticket costs 6 € per person.
From the city train station there are trains going to Rome about every 30 minutes (same rough schedule from Rome to Civitavecchia).

I suggest to you to buy the ticket named BIRG, which allows you to take the train on the way to Rome and on the way back to Civitavecchia and to use all public transportation in Rome (buses and the subway).
The BIRG ticket is sold in the bar next to the train station main Hall, costs 12 € and is to be convalidated just once before leaving

SECOND OPTION: Special Train reserved to Cruise Passengers

This service usually works every year from April 1st till November 1st. There are two rides totally, one each way: h 09.07 am from Civitavecchia to Rome (arrival h 10.10) and 04.30 pm from Roma Ostiense to Civitavecchia (arrival 5.20).

The Ostiense train station is very close to the archaeological area of Rome and the Colosseum, which are just two underground stops far from Ostiense railway station!

This train stops also in San Pietro railway station in Rome, before Ostiense station: that’s truly nice! Infact passengers will also have the chance to visit the Vatican and Saint Peter’s Basilica, just 15 minutes walking far.

PLEASE NOTE: the train’s schedule may vary every year.

ROME BY TRAIN

SHUTTLE BUSES TO THE SHIP

Are you wondering how you can get to your cruise ship from your hotel in Civitavecchia or from the Train Station?

That’s what you need to know!

You can take the shuttle buses going to the cruise ships from two different places:

1 • LARGO DELLA PACE: it is the FREE PORT’S SHUTTLE BUSES TERMINAL, right outside the port’s gate. From this outdoor Terminal, free shuttle buses leave and go to each cruise ship about every 15 minutes. You need to show your boarding pass. You can put your luggage in the bus’ luggage rack.

2 • THE SQUARE FACING THE RAILWAY STATION: from the Square facing the main Entrance/Exit of the Railway Station,.the Shuttle Buses going to the cruise pier leave. They connect each cruise ship with the Train Station and the cost of the Ticket is 6 € per person.

SHUTTLE BUSES TO THE SHIP

GLUTEN FREE OPTIONS

In Civitavecchia, for those who need to eat gluten free, there are some good restaurants, pizzerias and pastry shops where it is possible to enjoy the typical local cuisine, pizza and pastries and choose among a wide variety of menu options

Here the NAMES and ADDRESSES are:
︎ RED CARPET Pizzeria, Piazza Antonio Fratti 19
︎ CHALET DEL PINCIO (best gelato in Civitavecchia!) Via Buonarroti 3
︎IL CANTUCCIO Pizzeria, Via Monte Grappa 6
︎ LA FONTANA Pastry Shop, Via Pietro Manzi 3
︎ LA SORA MARIA Trattoria, Lungoporto Antonio Gramsci 65
*Please, check on Google for opening hours*

︎ Marty Gluten Free https://g.co/kgs/ghSdmkG
Via Paolo Antonini

Last but least: here in Italy, you can download the AIC mobile app, which shows you gluten free restaurants and pizzerias all over Italy!

GLUTEN FREE OPTIONS

TYPICAL LOCAL DISHES AND PRODUCTS

And now let’s talk about the local gastronomy

… That’s what, together with History and Art, I love most!

The culinary tradition boasts many recipes and most of them are based on fresh local fish but the “Civitavecchiesi” are also very fond of desserts and other peculiar dishes.

Fish Soup

rock fish, cuttlefish, mussels, seabreams, crustaceans, anchovies, garlic, extravergin olive oil, peeled tomatoes, salt, wine and roasted bread… Yummy

Civitavecchiese Easter Pizza

It is a typical dessert which is prepared during the Easter festivities.

Here the ingredients are: flour, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, vermouth, anice, ricotta cheese, butter and milk. The Pizza di Pasqua has 24 hours leavening process… it’s sooooo good if you taste it with Nutella spread on one side at breakfast … a very good yummy morning but tons of calories!

Stuffed Calamari

The stuffed Calamari are filled with eggs, parsley, chilli pepper, breadcrumbs, garlic, oil and chopped squid tentacles. They are cooked in a pan with oil and white wine. You can’t miss them! They’re so good and tasty

Snails with tomato sauce

Yes I know…. they might be not appealing but… Oh My… the flavour of the sause is unbelievably good!

Cooked snails (also named “Rigatelle”) are a very beloved specialty in Civitavecchia.

They are fried together with chopped garlic, chilli pepper, parsley and, sometimes, anchovy paste. Afterwards, tomato sauce and mint are added. The snails are added and cooked with a little quantity of wine.

They can be served both as an appetizer and as a second course .

The Civitavecchiese Stuffed Pizza

This local spicy pizza consists of two layers of pizza filled with a very rich and tasty stuffing: tomato, anchovies , parsley, garlic, mozzarella and lots of chilli pepper!

Christmas Biscuits

In Civitavecchia you can’t fully enjoy the Christmas atmosphere if you don’t make the so called “Biscuttine” (the local dialectal name for the Italian “Biscottini” which is a diminutive for “Biscuits”)

They call on for the following ingredients: eggs, sugar, butter and lard for the dough plus toasted almonds, hazelnuts, candied fruit and chocolate, rum, chopped orange skin and cinnamon.

They are usually homemade but you can find them also in the local pastry shops.

The traditional recipe may vary and each family boasts the best recipe so that a fin competition starts every Christmas

The Fave da Morto

The Fave da Morto are circular, flat biscuits and may be defined as biscuits dedicated to the beloved deceased ones.

They are almond based and made on November 2nd to commemorate the Deceased.

The Pancakes of Saint Giuseppe

On March 19th , in honor of Father’s Day , it is tradition to prepare these delicious rice pancakes, known as St. Joseph’s Fritters!

It is a simple but very tasty recipe : first of all, let the rice boil in half a liter of milk , then add a knob of butter , sugar , eggs , rum , cinnamon , yeast , grated lemon peel and raisins .

When the dough is ready, it is left to rest for a few minutes before dipping it into the hot oil. Finally, as soon as the pancakes have taken on a golden color, they are sprinkled generously with sugar and all we have to do is eat them!

The Sambuca Molinari

“It was 1945 when Angelo Molinari, an expert perfumer and connoisseur of the secrets of blending, began his experiments to create a product of the highest quality: the Sambuca Extra. A liqueur with an unmistakable taste, based on star anise…

Molinari spread throughout Rome thanks to Angelo and his sons, Marcello and Mafalda, who brought it to the attention of the restaurateurs of Via Veneto. A drink consumed with coffee beans in it, which soon became emblematic of a worldly era filled with glamour and an inspiration for Federico Fellini’s masterpiece La Dolce Vita.
Many celebrities, both actors and sports stars, took turns providing endorsements for Molinari’s advertising campaigns.
Even Frank Sinatra, a great admirer of Sambuca Molinari, was such a fan that he wrote a letter praising it to the Molinari family.“

Credit: https://www.molinari.it/en

TYPICAL LOCAL DISHES AND PRODUCTS

CAR RENTAL

If you’re thinking about renting a car to get to Civitavecchia from Rome Airport or from the city of Rome, it may be a good solution, if you feel comfortable to drive along the highway to Civitavecchia. It is quite easy and it takes about 45 minutes from Fiumicino Airport but, most of all, you won’t have to drive in the cahotic crazy traffic of Rome! If you will leave from your Hotel in Rome, please use your GPS car navigator be ready to be patient for a little while and endure Rome’s cahotic traffic for half an hour!

The earlier you book the car, the cheaper it will be. You will need a credit card and the person who will rent the car is to be the cardholder. This option is obviously cheaper than cabs and private transportation services. Plenty of reliable companies have their offices in Fiumicino. In particular two car rental companies, HERTZ and AMICO BLU, have their offices in Civitavecchia in two very convenient and strategic locations.
HERTS is located close to the train station and therefore few Steps far away from the City Shuttle Buses’ Station from where the shuttle buses leave and go to the cruise piers.
AMICO BLU is located in Via Sedici Settembre, less than 5 minutes walking far from the Free Port’s Shuttle Buses Terminal in Largo della Pace, from where free buses leave and go in front of each cruise ship.

CAR RENTAL

CHANGE OFFICES and ATMs

You may need to change your money and take some Euros; I’ve personally picked the following change offices

https://g.co/kgs/To8tSL
https://g.co/kgs/ca4nUF

Going on speaking about money, knowing where the closest ATM is, may be very helpful
https://g.co/kgs/VEYvfZ
https://g.co/kgs/PiftUr
https://g.co/kgs/31ow3j
https://g.co/kgs/7y9fpN

CHANGE OFFICES and ATMs

Downtown SHOPPING Area

Civitavecchia downtown an area of about 7 acres while its historical centre is much smaller and so intimate

Its shape may be compared to a scalene triangle whose longer buttom side stretches along the seacoast and is nearly 1 mile long and whose altitude is about one third of a mile.

The two extremities of the sea-parallel base of the triangle may be considered to be Via XVI Settembre and Largo Thaon De Revel while the upper extremity of its height can coincide with Largo Monsignor Giacomo D’Ardia or few metres further, where a ringroad and the tall white statue of the Vergin Mary are located.

In this area you’ll find everything you’ll need for a short stay

: the hairdresser, the tabacconist, the pharmacy, the newsagent, the grocery, the laundry, the change office, banks and ATMs, clothing stores and boutiques, toy and gift shops, souvenir shops, the train station, the Postal Service, the cab station, car rental offices, bar and restaurants, gelato places plus the Police and the Carabinieri Headquarters (but I hope you won’t need any of them definitely!!!)

I remind you that you can also download and use my City Map: I had it made to help you all!